Friday, September 30, 2011

OMG, it's Lake Umbagog!!!


Umbagog Lake is a wilderness lake located in Coös County, New Hampshire and Oxford County, Maine, considered to be one of the most pristine lakes in the state. It lies in the towns of Errol, New Hampshire, and Upton, Maine, as well as the townships of Cambridge, New Hampshire and Magalloway Plantation, Maine. The name Umbagog is pronounced with the stress on the second syllable (um-BAY-gog) from the Abenaki word for "shallow water".


We camp at Lake Umbagog for two weeks in late September.  The sunsets are spectacularly stunning.  The night sky, with no light interference, is an inky, dark sky, making the Milky Way loom large and prominent!   Every day, the foliage turns up the intensity of color another notch, until finally when we depart,  it is at its vibrant, flaming peak!


Following the Androscoggin River into nearby Errol is a lovely scene, winding lazily at times along the road, and at other times crashing over boulders with white water spray galore.


Fly fishermen are always present in their waders or in little row boats.


We are on a constant lookout for moose, but none to be seen.


In Errol, we are ecstatic to find L.L.Cote's Toys for Big Boys and Girls store.


We set our sights and hearts and minds on two Old Town Dirigio 10 1/2 foot kayaks, 'cloud' for me, 'sunrise' for Mike AND with matching paddles, no less!


Austin, our salesman, is knowledgable and ever so helpful as he assists us in selecting the best equipment for our needs.


We love, love, love our kayaks!  Our first two ventures are beautiful experiences.  On our third foray; however, as we near the middle of the lake, the wind picks up and the waves start approaching the intensity of white caps.  Novice that I am, I struggle to get across the lake, only to round a bend too close to shore, winding up on a big flat rock just below the surface that I can't get off of.


After the panic subsides, I make it around the bend, but lesson learned.  I am not ready for windy kayaking!


The Presidential Range is a mountain range located in the White Mountains of the New Hampshire, almost entirely in Coos County, and with the highest peaks of the Whites.  Its most impressive summits are named for American Presidents, followed by prominent public figures of the 18th and 19th centuries.


Mt. Washington, long home of the highest winds recorded on the surface of the Earth at 231 mph is the tallest at 6,288 feet.  In the museum, they have a movie playing called the 'Breakfast of Champions' to illustrate just how windy it can get atop Mt. Washington!  A fellow goes to the restaurant there, asks to be seated outside.  The waiter tells him it is a bit breezy today, but he insists.  The gale force winds make for a hilarious dining experience.  First the cereal blows literally out of the box, his clothes are plastered against his skin and when he tries to pour milk over the cereal it is blown in every direction.  I was laughing so hard I almost embarrassed myself, but not quite!  When he finally gets blown over, and the chair and table get whisked away...haha, very funny stuff!  Take my word, it gets windy up there!


The peaks are named chiefly for U.S. presidents, with the tallest mountain, Mt. Washington, named for the first president, the second tallest , Mt. Adams, for the second president, and so on. However, due to a surveying error, Mt. Monroe is actually 22 feet taller than Mt. Madison, which is not the correct order of presidents, oops!


Mount Washington's Auto Road is not for the faint of heart.   The road, constructed in 1861, climbs about 4,700 vertical feet at an average grade of 12%.


The first 4 miles are cut through dense forests of hardwoods and evergreens.


At around 4,500 feet, the trees are stunted, twisted, and gnarled.  As you climb above the tree line, the road at times appears to disappear into the sky.


Sheer drop-offs with no guard rails just about send my vertigo into overdrive.  I consider curling up in the fetal position on the floorboard of the truck more than once.  While Mike, pleased as punch, and in his element of enjoying extreme adventures, (he used to skydive for goodness sakes!), just putters along to the top with a big grin on his face, as relaxed as can be! I on the other hand am on the verge of a panic attack or hurling at the very least!


The views are indeed spectacular, even though the summit is enveloped in a cloud, which it is 60% of the time.


In the mid-19th century, the summit was developed into one of the first tourist destinations in the nation, with construction of more bridle paths and two hotels. The Summit House opened in 1852, a 64-foot-long stone hotel anchored by four heavy chains over its roof.


 In 1853, The Tip-Top House was erected to compete. Rebuilt of wood with 91-rooms in 1872-1873, The Summit House burned in 1908, then was replaced in granite in 1915.  The Tip-Top House survived the fire and today  is a state historic site, recently renovated for exhibits. Other Victorian era tourist attractions included a coach road (1861)—now the Mount Washington Auto Road—


and the Mount Washington Cog Railway (1869), both of which are still in operation.


Spending two weeks soaking up the metamorphosis that is the seasonal change we call autumn


is such a treat for us since Florida has two seasons, sort of.


We discover the quaint village of Stark, who according to its native son, our favorite kayak guru, Austin, has the most photographed covered bridge in New England.


In Lancaster, we espy this beauty.


But the most surreal covered bridge experience was in Groveton, where we found this jaw-dropping, mirror image wonder!


It is always a special treat when fellow Airstreamers are camping nearby.  We enjoy meeting Paul and Jane from Connecticut in their 1959 International Bat Cave Express.


They have lovingly restored it, making it eclectic, funky and fun!  


The pristine remoteness of Lake Umbagog is relaxing and invigorating.  Sunrises, sunsets, the lake, the foliage, the night sky, and campfires.  No TV or phone signal for two whole weeks...ah, heaven!

3 comments:

Bridgmary said...

Beautiful! We are hoping there is still color in Vermont in two weeks! I love reading all your adventures! We love our kayak! Have fun!

Susan McKenna said...

Hi Delores and Mike,
Finally getting to read your fabulous Umbagog and NH post.
I followed the same route returning to Manchester, NH and have an almost identical pic of Stark. Probably thousands of others do too.
Lovely pictures and great narrative. Keep up the interesting blogging.
Hope to connect "somewhere". Maybe FL.

Dolores Covington said...

I hope so, Susan! Stay in touch! Dolores ;)